UNPLUG THE MACHINE FROM THE OUTLET
This is the original board that was in the machine. The first step in replacing the board is unplugging the wafers from the board.The next step is to unscrew the screws that are keeping the cage attached(the metal with all the holes). Then remove the screws that can be seen on the right side of the image. Then remove the screws on the left side (not it photo). After this it if separated from the wall. Set the assembly aside. It is very heavy to be a little careful. If you see in the image there are 4 brown pin looking things. You want to pinch these with some needle nose pliers and pull the board off them gently. After this you are free to begin. Next up is your work space/materials you need. Well a workspace is a simple as a place to work. For materials, you need a new replacement board. In our case we bought a new Rectifier board which works for all Bally machines. We also need a soldering iron to remove the wires from the back. Don't worry about copper wick as the board is junk after replacing it. Okay now we have our work area, soldering iron, and solder and Wire strippers. Now make sure to take photos of all the connections present on the board for reference. Normally don't be too worried as you will be going wire by wire, but good practice.
Now that we have the pictures we may proceed. If I had a picture of the back of the new board I would put that here, but instead I have a front image which still relays the needed info.
If you notice there are the letter E followed by a number. These are where the wires are going to go. If you check your original board, you will notice they also have the E followed by the number. The trick is to match the wire with the same number. Also quick but important note, you are applying the wires to the back of the board shown above not the front. Start wherever you want on the Original board and cut the wire with about 1/4 of an inch still attached to the Original board. Now use the wire strippers and strip about a 1/2 of an inch of tubing. Now stick the now exposed wire through the matching E X hole. If you can have someone hold the wire, or else fold it under. Now take your soldering iron and solder the connection onto the board. Let it cool then give it the tug test, just a little pull. Assuming it stayed in move onto the next wire. The process is the same throughout. Now some connection have double wires, they work the exact same. They have no specific orientation when it comes to which hole to put it in. Ta Da, you just hatched the new board to the Power distributor. Next step is putting it back in the slot, and re screwing everything. Now at this point you might have noticed I never mentioned the fuses. Well assuming fuses came with the new board you order you have to put them in the correct spots. To do this check the original board for the correct Voltages, as the board we used did not have them listed. Just go down the list and match the fuses with voltages for the slot. After this, plug the wafers back in and turn the machine on. Assuming everything went well, which if you followed this tutorial I am 95% sure it should, you now have successfully replaced a part on the machine. Give yourself a pat on the back. If it does not turn on, make sure you plugged the machine back in. And if it still doesn't work go back and take it off and check the solder connections. This is tedious so make sure to get it right the first time.
There you go, a tutorial on how to replace the rectifier board. Remember to leave comments and feedback down bellow. And feel free to ask questions, pinball is all about learning together. If you think I did something wrong, feel free to comment it and I will add it in.
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